Pin Removal Tools!

What is your favorite thing to do on a flute overhaul? 

Wait, don't answer that, I already know...

PIN REMOVAL! (Not!)

What a pain! But, with the right tools it can be easier.

First off, the old standby from Ferree's!

The F20.

Link

From their catalog:

"This is a very versatile tool. In addition to flute key pin removal, many stubborn woodwind springs

can also be removed with the F20 Key Pin Tool. And, you can be as fast as the factory in flute key pin removal. The set consists of a frame, three anvils and three punches. The brass anvils designed so that they can fit any key configuration. Newly improved model has the punch spring loaded for stability.

ANVILS

The short brass anvil fits most keys. If you find a key that needs a custom fit, use the small lead filled anvil. This is similar to the old way of removing pins using a lead block and hand held punch. The third

anvil is tall and made of brass. Use it to reinstall the pins when assembling the key.

PUNCHES

The three punches are made out of tool steel and have been hardened and tempered. One punch has a sharp point for the pins that are ground off flush with the key. The second punch has a small flat end on the end and the third has a concave punching surface which works best on pins that protrude from the key or when reinstalling pins in the key.

INSTRUCTIONS

To use the F20 Key Pin Removal Tool, install the proper fitting anvil into the base. Place the key on the anvil and slide the punch down to contact the pin. Then tap the punch to remove the pin."

Wow...even stubborn springs...good luck getting that tool onto a flute to punch a spring out! The F20 is what I send out to all my online students. Very solid and functional. Reasonably priced as well.

Next up...JLSmith

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Model 233047 This is one I have used for many. many years. You can tell by the missed hammer hits! This is the original made by Rex Bullock when he had the NOVUS tool company in California It came with a brass and plastic saddles, but no lead. I made the lead one you see in the picture out a G# lever pearl holder for a MKVI alto!

Rex bought Ed Myers and subsequently sold Ed Myers to Jeff. When Jeff was in my shop I showed him how I drilled out a hole for a piccolo test light so I could light the work area and maybe see what I was hitting. He incorporated that into the design and made a number of other improvements as well. A nice workable tool. Click the "link" above to go to his site and see how different the tool is from the original shown here.

Really nice Jeff!

 From his page...
"The ultimate pin removal tool: the J.L. Smith Flute Key Pin Punch, allows you to safely and easily loosen even the toughest pins without ever harming the keys or shafts. Two pin punches (pointed and concave) allow you to work with pins that are flush or slightly raised and a third needle punch with a pilot sleeve allows you to tap loose any longer pins. A spring-loaded ball holds the punch in place, allowing both hands free to hold the key and hammer. The tool also comes with 4 individually shaped anvils to support various keys on flutes or piccolos. Once you’ve tapped the pin loose just use your J.L. Smith Whole Spring & Pin Pliers* to gently pull the pin free. The J.L. Smith Flute Key Pin Punch even comes with a mini Maglight® that slips into position at the top of the tool and lights the working area. Every aspect of this beautifully crafted tool has been carefully considered and engineered for optimal accuracy and ease of use. The J.L. Smith Flute Key Pin Punch is made in America by the J.L. Smith engineering team. Individual anvils are available for easy replacement when they get overly worn and it comes with the J.L. Smith 100% lifetime warrantee so you can depend on this quality tool to last."

Next up Boehm (Bohm) Tools, Germany

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Model 581, fast becoming a favorite in the shop, plied rather than a pounded!  Comes with extra tips and receivers, handy and versatile for springs as well, not on flutes and clarinets so much, but great for saxophones and larger woodwind instruments.

 From the Boehm (Bohm) catalog:
"KEY PIN REMOVAL PLIERS Special parallel pliers for the removal of the key pins of flutes and other woodwind instruments. To fit any key configuration, there are two different anvils and two different removal punches. A very handy and yet stable tool! -581- key pin removal pliers (parallel pliers), with 2 interchangeable brass anvils and 2 interchangeable removal punches."  

Last, but certainly not least, the Votaw Tool Company

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Model 2780 is a masterpiece. Not only for unpinning but threading too! Very stable, multiple attachments...and did I mention, IT THREADS! Fast becoming my favorite for a few reasons. I can actually see what I am doing! With the large throat area there is no need to crank your neck to see where you are punching. If you shop is well lite, you do not need auxiliary lighting to see the key/punch relationship. Cool.

And did I mention IT THREADS TOO!

From their catalog:

"Our Punch and Thread Cutting Tool is an excellent addition to any woodwind bench. Precision designed and constructed to perform the following tasks:

• key pin removal and installation
• thread cutting hinge rods
• flattening ends of needle springs

Comes complete with:

• Main tool frame
• Drill chuck - open bore - capacity 0.015" - 0.25" (0.4mm - 6.5mm)
• 3 Key pin punches
• 3 Key hinge bases - 2 'V' blocks and 1 lead block
• Hammer punch & Anvil base - tool steel for flattening needle springs
• Storage Rack"

I encourage you to clink on the links for better pictures and prices.With a job as critical as pin removal, you can't spend too much to get the job done right!

Thanks for visiting, and as always, your comments are welcome!
"Dr. D"

If you need help with unpinnig, visit www.ciomit.com

Bench Motors

Bench Motors... You're not really a repairer unless you have one!

We have options...Ferrees, Votaw, Allied. Which is better, which is worse? They all spin a rod screw...right?

Well, lets talk about them. What makes a bench motor a "bench motor" is the shaft that the motor spins on is drilled through, like a lathe. You can insert a rod all the way through. 

To quote the Ferree's web site:

"With a N99 Bench Motor, you can make quick work out of jobs such as; straightening bent clarinet and saxophone rods, turning hollow and solid hinge tube cutters, pivot screw counter bores, and pivot screw reamers. Add a few inexpensive accessories and you’ll be able to sand the corks on clarinet mouthpieces, mount a small buff to finish color buff clarinet and flute keys while they’re on the horn. You can spin drills of all sizes. The N99 motor comes complete with hollow extended shaft, precision ground with a 3/8” (9.5mm) Jacobs chuck ensuring true center, an aluminum hand brake and foot switch. 1725 speed."

Much of the time, we use a bench motor when it is not under power. For example: Tapping and Die work. Slotting a rod screw. Holding a valve stem on a piston to unscrew it when it becomes corroded into the piston. It is an essential tool for any shop.

The Ferree's and Allied Supply motors are AC, one speed. On or off. Functional, and ones I have used for over 42 years. The smaller version (N97) is basically a washing machine motor on rubber mounts. I find it workable, but not as stable as its bigger brother the N99. My choice here is the N99.

But what if you want variable speed? In comes the Votaw Tools 2621 DC motor bench motor. Basically what you are getting here is a Sherline Mini Lathe head mounted on an adjustable base. I like it! With or with out a foot pedal you have total control of the speed. Pinning a clarinet? No more rotating the chuck by hand. Set the speed slow and let the motor do the work.  To quote the www.votawtool.com...

Variable Speed Control ... turn dial to adjust speed from 70 to 2,800 rpm.

Motor ... 1/2 hp, high torque, with smooth quiet operation. Current draw 0.5 - 15.0 amps depending on load. No voltage converter required - this motor will work on any voltage world wide from 100 to 240 volts AC, 50hz to 60hz. Equipped with USA style 3 conductor power cord and plug.

Versatile Positioning ... by loosening one set screw, the unit can be rotated on the mounting base to any position in a 360° range.

Röhm Keyed Chuck ... Röhm precision keyed chuck made in Germany. Holding capacity: 1/32" to 1/2" (1-13mm). Thru-hole diameter: 3/8" (9.5mm). Keyless Albrecht chuck also available - see item #2620 UNIVERSAL BENCH MOTOR - KEYLESS CHUCK. (Note: Albrecht keyless chuck is shown in above picture)

Full Sized Hand Brake ... provides comfortable control for bringing chuck to complete stop after motor has been switched off, or use to rotate chuck for manual operation.

You might see where I am leaning, and in a price comparison, Votaw's 2621 is a great value.

No matter which motor you end up wit, you cannot go wrong. All are great quality, and will last for years!  I have all three in my shop. 

And remember...If you repair, you need a bench motor!

Training in Africa! Your chance to help!

CORK! Did you know it comes from an Oak Tree?



Nothing like it! The world of musical instruments cannot exist without it! From sax neck corks to oboe pads, synthetics just cannot compete.

Here are a few videos that show cork production.

The first video is epic. OSHA would be astounded at the methods used!

Old Black and White footage.

The next video is a bit more modern and gives great explanation to cork production. Even though it focuses on wine cork production, you will learn a lot about what makes it work!

Modern Production

                                  Shellac
What is it? What is it used for in the instrument repair business?

Luthiers will use it to put a French Polish on guitars.

Woodwind repairers will use it as glue.


There are three forms of shellac: 1)Flake shellac, both waxed and de-waxed. 2) Liquid shellac, flake shellac mixed with denatured alcohol. 3) Stick shellac, flakes melted into a stick or round.

Before we had contact cement and "hot glue" (the type used in crafting), shellac was it. The repairer would spread a thin layer of liquid shellac onto cork for key work and let dry. By heating the key, when placed onto the shellacked cork, the heat would reconstitute the shellac and when cool would adhere the cork to the key.

For pads, the liquid shellac would be brushed into the pad cup, then heated with a flame to burn of the alcohol.Once the alcohol was burned off, the pad would be placed into the cup which then cemented to pad to the cup. It would be necessary to bend the cup to get the pad to cover the tone hole with this method.

Another method of pad retention using shellac is the melting of the stick shellac into the cup. This provides a thicker "bed" of shellac which facilitates the "floating" of the pad on the shellac to obtain a level pad in the cup over the tone hole, without the need to bend the cup to get the pad to cover the tone hole..

You might be surprised where shellac comes from! It is total natural and "green!"

Watch this video to see where it comes from, and how it is produced.

Video

Another fascinating fact about the shellac, besides how long it has been used in musical instrument building, is that in 1922 , a 2oz. tube of soft shellac cost $4.50. That same year, you could have bought a silver plated, gold lined bell, bass saxophone for $275.00! This shows how difficult it was to obtain and manufacture in 1922.

At CIOMIT, we value this fine natural glue. Enjoy the video!

Dr. D

Greetings!

This blog will pertain to everything repair. I will share my 42 years experience with you in multiple forms. Please bookmark the page and check in now and then, My schedule is busy with www,ciomit,com, but my goal is to help you understand the repair side of music. This is for both repairers and musicians, so visit often. Brass woodwind strings and percussion, all topics will be covered. Ask questions! I love to help, and my motto is "Re-think everything!"